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Scents of pear and quince suggest a fresh as well as jellied aspect, mingled with mint, fennel and anise. The creamy palate delivers a corresponding combination of freshness and cooling green herbacity as well as bright grapefruit and lime citricity that is remarkable for a wine at once richly confitured in flavors and slicked with honeyed traces of botrytis. As if the aforementioned complex and harmonious juxtaposition were not striking enough, this beauty’s vibrant, soaring finish adds stimulating cress-like nips to its already diverse herbal arsenal. (I have not tasted the bottling of Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsel – A.P. #21 – that went to auction.)
This 2017er Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese GK starts off with a whiff of volatile acidity, which peps up the rather rich and ripe scents of apricot, mango, honey, smoke, ginger cake and spices. The wine is superbly playful on the palate but still on the sweet side in the f inish. A good acidic structure runs through the finish and gives it grip and crispness. 2027-2047