Côte Rôtie Belle Hélène, Domaine Stéphane Ogier 2011

Even better (yet we split hairs here), the 2011 Cote Rotie La Belle Helene, which comes all from the Cote Rozier lieu-dit, possesses a liquid rock-like minerality to go with notions of black raspberry, smoked meat, graphite, black olive and underbrush. The most masculine, firm and concentrated in the lineup, it has full-bodied richness, rocking concentration and masses of ultra-fine tannin that build on the palate. It’s approachable now due to the overall quality of the fruit and tannin, yet it will be better in another couple of years, and drink well for two decades.