Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2018

The 2018 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc has a tightly-wound bouquet with granite/limestone aromas infusing the malic, apply fruit. It is more austere than other vintages I have tasted over the last 30 years (which is all of them.) The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and energetic with good depth towards the lightly spiced, marmalade-tinged finish. This gets better as it goes along. No, not the greatest Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, but it seems to be improving during its élevage. Drink 2023-2040.

The Domaine de Chevalier 2018 Blanc, a blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon, slowly reveals beguiling scents of lemongrass, lime leaves, fresh grapefruit, allspice and ginger with a core of fresh lemon and grapefruit. Medium to full-bodied, the palate delivers bold citrus and spice layers with fantastic tension and a chalky finish. Aging on lees in barriques, 35% new, is anticipated to go for 16 months.

This is dense and very structured with phenolic tension and depth. Full-bodied, lightly phenolic with sliced apples, cooked pears and lemons. Lively and intense. Solid as a rock. This is one to watch.

Domaine de Chevalier's Blanc is surprisingly unctuous in this vintage. Lemon confit, dried flowers and chamomile are some of the many notes that develop in the glass. The Blanc is, of course, famous for its ageworthiness, but I don't see the complexity, energy or structure of the very best years. I would prefer to drink it on the younger side. In 2018, the red is vastly more interesting than the Blanc. The blend is 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sémillon. Tasted three times.

Barrel sample. Smells classy at the outset, even though it is introvert because so young: just has hints of everything, fresh citrus, oak spice and leesy depths. On the palate, an incipient quality: cool, fresh, well structured and deeper than most in this vintage. Lightly chewy, lots of fruit and a hint of spice on the finish. Powerful and long. Impressive. (JH)
Drink 2024-2035

Bright and ripe with a saline edge reminiscent of preserved lemons on the nose. The palate is riper, with hints of topical fruit and lemon curd that adds weight. This is cut through by vibrant acidity and a flinty, smoky undertone that is subtle but significant. Complex and intense, there is real drive on the finish that adds to the tension and power.

One of the whites of the vintage is the 2018 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, which is both powerful and fresh in the vintage. Crushed citrus, tart melon, lemon curd, and crushed rock-like minerality all give way to a pure, full-bodied dry white that has integrated acidity and a great, great finish. A blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sémillon that will spend 18 months in 35% new French oak, it’s going to be relatively accessible in its youth (unlike the 2015) yet should age beautifully.

What this white does that not everyone has achieved in 2018 is hold your attention. It's not a 2017 or 2011 at Chevalier, but it has grip and personality and a whoosh of citrus and fleshy pear flavours that are highly enjoyable. Touches of spice run through the finish, together with a sweetness that speaks of the ripeness of the fruit. You could drink it today of course, but this is a white that can go two decades without blinking, so I wouldn't worry too much.

Drinking Window 2020 - 2030

(75 Sauvignon Blanc, 25 Semillon) This is one of the most balanced white wines of the vintage and it is neither too oaky, nor is it too oily. There is depth of fruit here but it is calm, smooth, layered and there is lovely acidity on the finish.