Nuits Saint Georges VV, Domaine Robert Chevillon 2017

Aromas of raspberries, small red berries, cherries, orange rind and sweet soil tones introduce Chevillon's excellent 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes, a medium-bodied, supple and expressive wine with an open-knit core of succulent fruit and fine-grained structuring tannins. As usual, it's an excellent representation of the appellation.

A discreet application of wood sets off a beautifully fresh and earthy array of red and dark currant scents. The sleek, vibrant and utterly delicious medium weight flavors exhibit a trace of minerality on the balanced, refreshing and lingering finish. This youthfully austere effort is a relatively refined Nuits villages that should drink reasonably well young. Note: this cuvée is mostly from La Charmotte and Au Chouillet, with bits and pieces from Aux Saints Jacques, Les Charmois, Les Maladières, Les Chaliots and Les Brûlées plus a few others too small to mention Drink: 2022+

Pale ruby in colour, the nose is already layered and complex. Deeply savoury in fruit, there is a cool edge to the strawberry and redcurrant tones that is matched by graphite, sandalwood and game. This same savoury character is evident on the palate, which is airy and fresh, with an old-school bite and earthiness that adds complexity in both texture and flavour. Pithy and direct, this is ready to go and will offer real pleasure in the mid-term for those seeking a bit of proper Nuits Saint Georges character. A wine with a sense of place.