The 2007 Meursault La Sève du Clos from Arnaud Ente is fabulous, wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet of pear, crisp stone fruit and blanched almonds, as well as delicate top-notes of petrol and subtly smoky reduction. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and intensely concentrated, with chewy extract, crystalline purity and electrifying energy: deep, multidimensional and effortlessly controlled. Ente's La Sève du Clos is produced from his oldest vines, from a parcel in En l'Ormeau that was planted not long after phylloxera hit Meursault in 1878. Until 1999, it wasn't replanted, and when vines died their neighbors were simply pruned longer to fill the space; today, some of these old vines' extended trunks have to be supported with stones. While this is only a village Meursault, and not from an especially prestigious lieu-dit at that, the combination of more than 120-year-old vines and Ente's meticulous winemaking produce a cuvée that embarrasses many grand cru whites.