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Riesling Kinheimer Hubertuslay Trockenbeerenauslese Lange Goldkapsel, Weingut Dr. Hermann 2018

Tasting Notes

From a very steep 1st-class vineyard with 70-year-old vines trained on single poles, the amber-golden colored 2018 Kinheimer Hubertuslay Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (Long Gold Capsule) is very clear and fresh on the intensely aromatic, highly concentrated, apricot but also citrus-fresh and even flinty nose. Rich and oily on the palate, this is a charmingly smooth, seamlessly textured, very sweet but refined and elegant TBA with fine acidity and a lemon-zesty finish. The concentration here is insane, and it's hard to taste any other wine after this Hubertuslay whose grapes were hand-sorted during the harvest of the Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese and came in at 260° Oechsle. In the first round, I thought this attractively fruity but terribly sweet Riesling didn't have the depth, finesse and tensioned structure of the Würzgarten, Prälat or Treppchen. After two days, though, I discovered the missed structure and finesse was only hidden behind a thick curtain of sweetness (490 grams per liter of residual sugar), fruit and texture. There is great potential to age this for decades—it's up to you if you like the wine that rich and sweet or more complex several years from now. I remember a discussion with a wine buyer from Malaysia who would surely prefer this TBA to all the others because the acidity is completely integrated and so smooth. For him and his clients, richness and roundness are trumps. This TBA was bottled with 6% alcohol and nine grams of total acidity. 30 liters produced. Tasted in July 2019. 2020-2100

98
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate (244), August 2019
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