Saint Joseph Les Clos, Maison M. Chapoutier 2016

Looking even better than it did last year, now that it's in the bottle, Chapoutier's 2016 Saint-Joseph Le Clos is impressive indeed. Classy notes of crushed stone and pencil shavings are joined by floral hints of violets, plus ripe cassis on the nose. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it comes across as dense yet not heavy (does that make any sense?), finishing with silky tannins and a tremendously long finish. It's a tour de force in Saint-Joseph, nearly equal in quality to Chapoutier's parcel-selection wines from across the river in Hermitage.