Angélus 1989

Possibly not showing as well as a bottle I had recently from my own cellar, this particular offering, which was about 50% Cabernet Franc and the rest Merlot, has a dark plum/purple color, but is still quite youthful. A beautiful sweet blueberry and blackberry-scented nose of olive, licorice and cedar wood is followed by a full-bodied and opulent wine, with hints of espresso roast and chocolate as well. It seemed to gain a lot in the glass, but the astringent tannins in the finish still seem a bit awkward and distracting. I think bottles I’ve had have generally shown better, although this is certainly an exceptional wine. It has just suffered somewhat in comparison with several of the other vintages. Drink now to 2030.

Tasted at Farr Vintners’ vertical from ex-chateau magnum. One of the finest vintages made at the estate, the Chateau Angelus 1989 has a very intense, powerful bouquet with blackberry, cedar, cooked meat and a little Christmas cake. Whereas the 1990 gives you everything up front, the 1989 is far more coquettish and takes time to unfold. The palate is very smooth on the entry, beautifully balanced with filigree tannins. There is an edginess to the 1989, much more feminine with a touch of truffle, coca and pepper on the finish. Wonderful, a wine at its peak, although it shows no signs of flagging. Tasted October 2011. Drink 2015-2035.

A great Angélus and one of the two or three best wines of the vintage made under the talented young Hubert de Bouard, this wine still has a youthful, saturated ruby/purple color and a sweet nose of melted licorice intermixed with crème de cassis, tapenade, cedar, spice box, and vanilla. Very full-bodied, opulent, and rich, it is one of the 1989s that justifies the lofty reputation of the vintage. Extremely thick, this wine can be drunk now or cellared for at least another 10-15 years.

The 1989 possesses a huge finish, with more noticeable tannin than in the 1990. Picking a favorite between these two fabulous examples of their respective vintages is - for me - presently impossible. I will probably end up drinking the 1990 before the 1989, but both are 25-30 year wines, with the 1989 possibly reaching full maturity in 5-6 years and the 1990 needing several more years of cellaring. Last tasted, 11/96.