Côtes du Rhône Ceps Centenaires La Meme, Domaine Gramenon 1998

This wine is a noteworthy Cotes du Rhone that is reasonably priced for such high quality. Among the most natural wines made in France, it is bottled with neither fining nor filtration, and possess high levels of CO2 because the SO2 levels are extremely low. As the sign on the winery says, it is "vin du raisin," and is uncommonly natural, which is Gramenon's guiding philosophy. The fabulous 1998 Cotes du Rhone Ceps Centenaire (20 barrels, or just under 500 cases) is the essence of old vine Grenache. Made from a parcel of 100-year old, head-pruned Grenache vines, this dense effort is akin to drinking the blood of Grenache. The viscous, thick, juicy 1998 reveals lots of acidity and vibrancy to its fruit flavors. This is a powerful yet gorgeously knit, symmetrical wine with great purity and presence in both its aromatics and flavors. A tour de force for a Cotes du Rhone, it will be delicious when released, and will keep for a decade or longer. This is the wine of a rogue genius in the northern, colder terroirs of the southern Rhone Valley. It is not to be missed.