CDP Vieilles Vignes, La Milliere Chateau 2003

I had high hopes that the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes would score in the low to mid-90s out of bottle, but no such luck. Nevertheless, this is an outstanding Chateauneuf du Pape and certainly a fine value. Deep ruby/plum/garnet with a wonderfully sweet and flamboyant nose of kirsch liqueur, ground pepper, and garrigue, the wine has a beautiful texture, full body, notes of plum, fig, and licorice, and a heady, glycerin-imbued finish. It is already delicious, but does not possess the extraordinary depth I thought it would. Nevertheless, it is seductive and best drunk over the next 7-8 years.

A newcomer that is just beginning to exploit its potential, this estate is owned by Aime and Michel Arnaud. The stunning 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (a blend of 60% Grenache, and the balance equal parts Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Counoise) is a seriously endowed, sexy, exuberant, fabulously perfumed effort. The dark plum/ruby/purple color is accompanied by complex aromas of flowers, licorice, black and red fruits, incense, and Asian spices. There are layers of fruit, medium to full body, an opulent texture, tremendous density as well as depth, and great overall balance. This tank and foudre-aged red will be at its peak between 2005-2014. 92/95.