CDP Vieilles Vignes, Domaine de Marcoux 2003

The blockbuster 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (16.3% alcohol) is a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah that usually emanates from the three old-vine parcels they own – La Crau, Gallimardes, and Esquirons. The fruit from the latter vineyard, which usually goes into the Vieilles Vignes as it did in 2004, did not make it in 2003. This wine is built from the back forward, meaning there is huge tannin and structure, so at first the wine seems somewhat backward, but with air, the extraordinary perfume of lilacs, sweet licorice, blackberry liqueur, and kirsch soar from the glass. There are even hints of roasted meats, smoked herbs, and underbrush as well as truffles. The wine has superb concentration, remarkable intensity, full-bodied flavors, sweetness, opulence, and a multi-layered palate and finish that literally have to be tasted to be believed. This wine spent 100% of its time in tank and is a modern-day monument to Chateauneuf du Pape, and the glories of the old vines of this appellation. I would give this wine another 1-2 years of bottle age and drink it over the following two decades. I wouldn’t be surprised to see it merit a perfect score in a few years – it’s that special.

Dark and brooding, this has a massive core of blackberry grenache, blueberry jam, cocoa powder, tar, mesquite and charcoal flavours caged by ironclad tannins. Shows awesome depth and length of fruit even though the brawn of the vintage is dominant now. If you're considering hunting this white rhino, cellaring is a must. Best from 2008 through 2030.

Very exciting wine that has long been in great demand. Amazing vibrancy despite its great weight of ripe, extremely 'bright' vivacious fruit. This somehow manages to have lift despite its heavy charge of ripe tannins and fruit. A conjuring trick of a wine. Drink 2007-2015.Date tasted 24th Nov 04.

The glories here are the two cuvees of red Chateauneuf du Pape. The wine is aged in a combination of small barriques, larger demi-muids, and steel tanks. The 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes, which was still in tank as it had not completely digested all of its residual sugar, appears to be spectacular. Like a lot of the 2003 high test cuvees (i.e., Andre Brunel’s Cuvee Centenaire, Henri Bonneau’s Reserve des Celestins, and Pegau’s Cuvee da Capo), it has been slow to finish fermentation, and will require additional time, but the potential is enormous. Marcoux’s 2003 Vieilles Vignes, a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah, already tips the scales at 16.2% alcohol. This 3,000-4,000-bottle cuvee emerges primarily from the estate’s old vine parcel of Grenache on La Crau, with fruit from Gallimardes and Esquirons included in the blend. However, in 2003, the Esquirons component did not make it into the Vieilles Vignes. Yields were an absurdly low 10 hectoliters per hectare. This extraordinary effort boasts a dense purple color as well as a resplendent perfume of black raspberry liqueur, flowers, melted licorice, kirsch, and blackberries. Opulent, full-bodied, and chewy, with fabulous concentration, tremendous purity, and a seamless finish that lasts for over 60 seconds, this amazing wine should rank alongside the greatest Marcoux Vieilles Vignes made to date, 2000, 1998, 1990, and 1989. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2020+.