CDP Vieilles Vignes, Domaine de la Charbonnière 1998

Proprietor Michel Maret's 1998 Vieilles Vignes displays oodles of violets, truffle, forest floor, kirsch and raspberries in a medium to full-bodied, heady, dense style. The tannins are resolved and the wine savory, fleshy, and oh, so pure and hedonistic. This is a very satisfying Chateauneuf du Pape that has reached full maturity, where it should stay for at least 5-8 more years.

Both of these wines have reached full maturity, and both are gorgeous examples of the vintage and of Chateauneuf du Pape.

The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes is more evolved, with plenty of bricking at its rim. Giving up lots of beef blood, iron, garrigue and fully mature fruit, it shows the classic firmness and focus that this cuvee always has, and I suspect always will. Drink it.

I was surprised by the restrained, elegant, mineral, spice, and red/black fruit characteristics of the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes. Its medium ruby/garnet color reveals more evolution than expected. Although excellent, this 1998 lacks that extra dimension of richness, concentration, and depth necessary to justify a 90-point score. However, it will drink well for 10-12 years.

The saturated ruby/purple-colored 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is backward, possessing fabulous depth, compelling purity and symmetry, and a long, full-bodied, multilayered finish. Neither overly jammy nor ready to drink, its super extract and length suggest 3-4 years of cellaring is advisable, although those wishing to commit infanticide should not be chastised. This special Chateauneuf du Pape will last for two decades