Corton Charlemagne, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey 2019

Pierre-Yves Colin explained that he has lost his source in Pernand-Vergelesses, so his cuvée of 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is derived entirely from climat Les Languettes in the commune of Aloxe-Corton—and is consequently two-thirds smaller than usual, as well as a touch more dramatic in personality. Offering up aromas of clear honey, citrus oil, fresh peach, pear and warm bread, it's full-bodied, layered and textural, with a deep, multidimensional core, lively acids and a long, expansive finish.

An attractively fresh if much more reticent nose only grudgingly gives up its aromas of newly sliced green apple, lemon-lime, anise and again, discreet wood influence. There is fine density to the suave and powerful yet reasonably well-detailed larger-scaled flavors that also conclude in a citrusy, bone-dry and compact finale that is less austere than it usually is. While this does need to add depth, it should do that if allowed a few years of cellaring and it's built to reward a decade plus.

From Les Languettes, still in barrel, neither racked nor sulphured. A light yellow-green in colour. Warm, but not too ripe fruit, from a cooler site here. This is more of a sensual than a stony Corton-but I do like the persistence of flavour at the finish.