Gevrey Chambertin Champonnets, Domaine Denis Mortet 2019

This the first wine to display any appreciable reduction and here it's enough to completely mask the underlying fruit. There is more size, weight, power and muscle to the big-bodied and equally mineral-driven flavors that are shaped by a firm but not hard tannic backbone on the lingering and youthfully austere finale that is both long and highly complex. Somewhat surprisingly, Mortet has tamed the natural tendency of Champonnets to give rusticity while accentuating its strong points. In sum, this is impressive and also worth checking out.