Lagrange (St Julien) 2004

This backward, tannic, strikingly oaky St.-Julien reveals a big structure as well as copious power and muscle, and a modern-styled combination of ripe fruit and new oak. While it requires a few years of bottle age to shed its cloak of tannin, and develop more Bordelais character, it possesses plenty of stuffing, and may turn out to be outstanding with additional time in bottle. Patience is warranted. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2025.

A silky and attractive red, with plum and berry character and hints of toasted oak and tobacco. Medium-bodied, with a solid core of fruit and silky tannins. Subtle and refined for the vintage.

Classic and balanced, cassis, bilberry, touches of rosebud and raspberry leaf. A gentle wine that is easy to drink and easy to love. This was a large crop with yields heading upwards of 60hl/h, which meant careful sorting and green harvesting in the vineyard (Lagrange had been the first in St Julien along with Leoville Las Cases to do so in the 1980s). Eric Boissenot consultant. An old school classic. 60% new oak, 46% 1st wine.

Slightly pale rim. Correct, good balance. Rather simple, slightly raw Cabernet aromas. Sweet palate attack quickly followed by some pretty green tannins. Suffers from being not fully ripe. A bit simple and aggressive. Drink 2013-18

A real contrast to the wine tasted immediately before this, La Tour Carnet. Expressive and lively on the nose - there's fresh dark fruit, coffee and peppery spice but also a cedary herbaceous edge. Fine, dry tannins add elegance and the whole is well balanced with a silky fresh finish. Drink 2009-2018. Date tasted 17th Feb 09.