La Mission Haut Brion 2009

La Mission Haut-Brion has made so many great wines over the last 100 years, it would be stupid to say the 2009 somehow exceeds this estate-s great classics, such as 1929, 1945, 1949, 1953, 1955, 1959, 1961, 1982, 1989, 1990, 1998, 2000, or 2005. Certainly it will take its place in the pantheon of all the great La Mission Haut-Brions ever made. There are 6,000 cases of it, made from a blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc. The natural alcohol hit 14.7%, which far exceeds the perfect wines of 1982, 1989 and 1990. Opaque purple in color, with an extraordinary nose of blueberry liqueur intermixed with camphor, charcoal, hints of burning embers and truffles, and loads of black berry and black currant fruit, the wine has sublime concentration and purity, a finish that goes well past 60 seconds, and not a hard edge to be found in this sumptuous, almost over-the-top, full-bodied wine of enormous power and massive density and richness. An immortal effort, it should drink well for 50-100 years! (Tasted once.)

Harvest started around September 9 at La Mission Haut-Brion, and finished almost a month later, on October 6. To get an idea of just how extraordinary all the wines from the Dillon family are in 2009, just consider how phenomenal the second wines are. Drink 2010-2110.

Tasted at the chateau. Delivering a hefty 14.7% alcohol and a pH of 3.84, the '09 La Mission has a beautiful bouquet with wonderful definition, quite feminine with pure blackberry, raspberry, orange-blossom and a touch of pencil lead. Very focused and lifted. The palate is full-bodied with fine tannins, very good structure but extraordinarily tightly coiled, ready to spring into life in 10-15 years. Hints of tobacco and espresso towards the finish that has a gentle but insistent tannic grip. Saline finish. Excellent. Tasted April 2010.

Shows juicy aromas of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon and currant, with hints of forest fruits and sandalwood. Full-bodied, offering chewy, mouthcoating tannins that are fruit-coated and velvety. Dense and powerful. A little subdued. Could be better than I think.

50% of the crop went into this. The alcohol level was 14.2% in 2005 with lots of plump Merlot boosting it but in 2009 the blend is 47% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and the alcohol level is a record 14.7%.Dark crimson. Scented, pretty, rather haunting aroma. Very rich and caressing - lovely texture. Still very firm and dry. The house signature of those warm bricks even in the super-ripe, super-imposing vintage of 2009! Lovely glow, and quite a bit alcohol on the end, but definitely no sweetness. SO different from the norm on the right bank... Almost inky finish. Seems very Cabernet to me. Fades just a little fast. Date tasted 2nd April 2010. Drink 2020-2040.

Frequently the equal of sister-Chateau Haut Brion, especially in top vintages. Indeed in years such as 1975, 1982 and 2000 it is arguably even better. The historic La Tour Haut Brion vineyard has been incorporated into La Mission now but none of the fruit produced from it is used in the grand vin but is relegated to the 2nd label - La Chapelle de la Mission. La Mission's production levels are now smaller than ever (6000 cases will be produced in 2009) and quality is often at a First Growth level. The 2009 is made from 47% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet France. Despite being picked in September there is a whopping 14.7 degrees of alcohol with big "legs" coating the sides of the glass and lots of glycerol. Superb richness of smoke-enfused tarry, ripe fruit. Fat with a hint of prunes and licorice, roasted but balanced by good acidity. A powerful wine with a long finish. A monster La Mission. Profound and exotic. One of the biggest wines of the vintage.

The nose is packed with ripe fruit, lovely and lush. Black and red fruits vie for dominance on the palate, their fleshy sweetness giving suppleness their freshness lifting the flavours and helping complexity. The balance is wonderful black fruit sweetness is balanced by red fruit freshness, the power of sloes by the lighter bilberry, so much power yet elegance. Drink 2020-2045.

Black red, marvellously intense expression of black fruits on the nose, slightly smoky with pure vineyard density and breed, magnificent structure, even slightly lush middle, great definition and length. Drink 2018-40.

The Cabernet Sauvignon achieved the same potential alcohol as the Merlot in 2009 - hence the unheard of 14.7% alcohol level here. Despite the power, this still has levels of acidity that are more reminiscent of Piedmont than Bordeaux. The oak isn't integrated yet, adding a touch of bitterness to the wine, but the freshness and fruit richness point to an exciting future. 20+ years.