Branaire Ducru 2012

Deep ruby/purple, with sweet cranberry, mulberry and raspberry/blueberry fruit, this is always a distinctive St.-Julien and the 2012 has managed to avoid any of the hollowness or harsh tannins that can afflict some of the Médocs. It is elegant, well-made and an outstanding effort in this vintage. Drink it over the next 15 or more years. Drink: 2015 - 2030

Picked from 2nd until 7th October at 39hl/ha during which they had 35mm of rain, 24mm from the 2nd until 15th and 11mm from 15th until the 17th. There were 107mm of rain compared to 164mm in 2011 and 172mm in 2008. It is a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc and is being raised in 60-70% in new oak. It offers light fresh strawberry, red cherry and cedar scents that are very typical Saint Julien. It is nicely defined but would benefit from more vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with a light, comparatively fleshy opening. This seems a forward Branaire that might yearn to be drunk sooner rather than later after bottling. It is fresh and harmonious, but is missing the backbone of the 2010 on the finish. This is conservative, but correct although a second sample proved more appealing. Tasted April 2013.

Dark crimson. Sweet, fragrant, rather floral nose. Opulent. Not at all typical of the vintage! Round and flattering. Some real energy here but not that true to type, though there are some nice dry appetising tannins on the finish.

The 2012 Branaire Ducru is a seductive effort that is a credit to this chateau, which did not try to over-extract or push the fruit past what it was capable of providing. The result is an elegant, pretty, mid-weight wine with soft, velvety tannin, spicy mulberry and black cherry fruit, hints of spring flowers and loamy soil undertones, medium body and a moderate finish. Drink it over the next 10-12 years.