Carruades de Lafite 2008

The 2008 Carruades de Lafite, made from yields of 46 hectoliters per hectare, is a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Revealing an inky/ruby/purple color that is slightly less dense than the grand vin's, it offers up beautiful aromas of graphite, smoke, black currants, and cedar. Very sexy in the fleshy style of the 2003, it is a succulent, hedonistic turn-on. Moreover, given the freshness and acid profile, it should drink well for 15-20 years. Interestingly, Lafite Rothschild's manager, Charles Chevalier, told me there was not much flavor in the grapes in mid-September, but a month later, after four weeks of extraordinary weather, they believed something profound may have happened given the flavor development. Again, the historically long period between flowering and harvest, and very low yields are part of the secret to the great success of wines such as this

A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc, this has a deep purple colour. The nose is rather tight at first, touches of cassis and blackberry at first, a hint of freshly rolled tobacco with an almost Nebbiolo scent in the background. The palate is medium-bodied, quite tannic, a little grainier than other Pauillacs, just a hint of leafiness inflecting the black, tarry fruit. Quite a "punchy" Carruades, moderate length, though at the same time rather conservative. A little short on the sappy finish.

90 Dark currant and berries on the nose, with hints of violet. Medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins and a medium finish. A little one-dimensional on the palate, but should develop well

Just 51% Cabernet Sauvignon with 45% Merlot.Mid crimson. Very light. Very clean nose. Lots of awkward underripe tannins and more than a hint of greenness. Rather grating texture. No special sculpting treatment for this second wine (unlike Petit Mouton!). Very dry, austere finish. Quite high volatility. Lots of (underripe?) Merlot in here. Drying finish.

Very limited availability here and almost certainly will be available only to last year's buyers. For the record, this was totally outclassed, in our view, by the same owner's Duhart Milon which is also much cheaper.

The ripeness of the fruit is evident on the nose, lots of sweet bramble and blackcurrant. Although the tannins are firm there is enough underlying flesh to enrich the finish.