Hungarian Gold - Royal Tokaji 2016s

We were delighted to taste the newly released 2016 Aszu wines from The Royal Tokaji Company last week and were stunned at the brilliance of these incredible and unique wines. Formed in 1990, Royal Tokaji has taken a Burgundian approach to these magnificent botrytized wines, bottling each vineyard separately rather than blending away their unique character. No 2014 or 2015 Aszu wines were made at Royal Tokaji as they pursue quality, so this is the first release in three years. 

There has been hard work in both the vineyard and winery in recent years to elevate the wines and bring a real vibrancy to each bottling. They have amazing acidity, steely freshness and rich Botrytis character. Fantastically concentrated, the wines are thick, sweet and opulent but display a magnificent tension between sugar and acidity. They finish clean, mouth-watering and linger on the palate. Neal Martin of Vinous.com praised the Betsek in particular, saying he "fell head over heels" for the wine, calling it "another outstanding single-vineyard offering" and awarding it 96 points. He also admired the Nyulaszo for it's "nervosité", calling it "intense (...) but razor-sharp" and giving it 95 points

Our own Thomas Parker MW, writing in jancisrobinson.com, scored the Mezes Maly 18.5++/20 with its "massive concentration" and "sweeter, rounder mouthfeel". He also complimented the Szt. Tamas on its "great balance" with sugar that "complements, rather than dominates the wine". Just 600 50cl bottles were produced from this vineyard in 2016 and the only way to procure the wine is in the limited Mixed Presentation Case. All the 2016 wines can be drunk now, but have the intensity and structure to age for many more years in bottle.

In an international context these tiny production wines are competitively priced and are highly recommended.

Minimum Order – 6 x 50cl
All wines available for delivery from late October. 


2016 Tokaji Mezes Maly 6 Putts, Royal Tokaji

Colour Region Vintage Wine Size Cs Bts GBP
Price
Per Score Help
Hungary2016Tokaji Mezes Maly 6 Putts, Royal Tokaji Wine Company50/630340.00692 NMAdd to Basket
All prices exclude UK duty & VAT and all wines are offered subject to remaining unsold. E&OE.

Mid gold colour. Honey, honeysuckle and candied apricots on the nose. Massive concentration with fleshy, sweet fruit on the palate. So youthful, with a sweeter, rounder mouthfeel than the other single-vineyard wines. Unctuous until the inevitable acidity cuts through, but this still finishes with a sweet kick. Honey, marmalade and blood orange. Superb! 2023 - 2048

18.5++/20 Thomas Parker MW, jancisrobinson.com

The 2016 Mézes Mály Great First Growth Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos, which contains 180.9g/L residual sugar, is the one cuvée whose nose I could not quite work out at first. It needs a few minutes to really coalesce, eventually offering toffee apple, adhesive, lanolin and wood resin scents. Personally, I prefer the Betsek and then the Nyulászó on the nose. The harmonious palate is business as usual, featuring pure botrytized fruit, a superb bed of acidity, and orange peel, marmalade and a touch of lemon sherbet toward the persistent finish, where a welcome touch of bitterness lingers in the mouth. Maybe the nose just needs time. 2025 - 2060

92 points Neal Martin, Vinous.com


2016 Tokaji Betsek 6 Putts, Royal Tokaji

Colour Region Vintage Wine Size Cs Bts GBP
Price
Per Score Help
Hungary2016Tokaji Betsek 6 Putts, Royal Tokaji Wine Company50/630290.00696 NMAdd to Basket
All prices exclude UK duty & VAT and all wines are offered subject to remaining unsold. E&OE.

The 2016 Betsek First Growth Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos contains the most residual sugar this vintage, at 185.8g/L. The clean, pure bouquet offers dried honey, a light adhesive note, lanolin and candle wax, very complex and mercurial in the glass. The elegant, well-balanced palate features apricot, quince, marmalade and a touch of ginger. What I adore is the manner in which this Betsek builds in the mouth and fans out like a great Tokaji ought to. Another outstanding single-vineyard offering from the Royal Tokaji Company.

96 points Neal Martin, Vinous.com

Mid gold in colour with a very youthful, pure nose of dried apricot and saffron. Great power and density on the palate, with real weight and generosity of fruit. The cut of mouth-watering acidity adds a savoury, earthy quality that brings a lip-smacking, spicy finish. Very powerful and rich, with glossy honey and stone fruits lingering for a minute or more. Superb and very ageworthy. 2022 - 2045

18+/20 Thomas Parker MW, jancisrobinson.com


2016 Tokaji Nyulaszo 6 Putts, Royal Tokaji

Colour Region Vintage Wine Size Cs Bts GBP
Price
Per Score Help
Hungary2016Tokaji Nyulaszo 6 Putts, Royal Tokaji Wine Company50/610290.00695 NMAdd to Basket
All prices exclude UK duty & VAT and all wines are offered subject to remaining unsold. E&OE.

The 2016 Nyulászó First Growth Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos, which delivers 180g/L residual sugar, has a deep, honeyed, slightly more introverted bouquet compared to the Ste. Tamás. It gradually reveals scents of manuka honey, orange pith and quince jus, yet it clearly deserves several years to really open. The palate is very well balanced, harmonious and brimming with tension. Pears, Seville orange marmalade, hints of mandarin and fresh figs vie for attention. This is a powerful, intense Tokaji, but razor-sharp, delivering real precision and "bite" toward the finish. Outstanding.

95 points Neal Martin, Vinous.com

Slightly closed on the nose at the moment – some notes of acacia, poached peaches and apricots. Quite a compact style, with searing acidity. Lithe and mineral, with an almost dry perception on the finish thanks to so much acid. 2024 - 2038

17+/20 Thomas Parker MW, jancisrobinson.com


2016 Tokaji Aszu Gold Label 6 Puttonyos, Royal Tokaji

Colour Region Vintage Wine Size Cs Bts GBP
Price
Per Score Help
Hungary2016Tokaji Aszu Gold Label 6 Puttonyos, Royal Tokaji Wine Company50/6100180.00694 NMAdd to Basket
All prices exclude UK duty & VAT and all wines are offered subject to remaining unsold. E&OE.

The 2016 Gold Label Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos, which delivers 188g/L residual sugar, is slightly more limpid in the glass than the Blue Label. The aromatics are also a serious and tangible step up, with much more Aszú character coming through: dried honey, a light adhesive aroma, orange pith and quince explode from the glass. The palate is ripe and viscous on the entry, then very fine acidity imparts great tension, particularly toward the finish. There is an underlying salinity at play that keeps the saliva flowing, yet unlike some botrytized dessert wines, this does not feel heavy or cloying in any way. Superb. Drink between 2022-2050

94 points Neal Martin, Vinous.com

Bright gold. Sweet and honeyed on the nose, noticeably more youthful and primary than the Blue Label. Almost grapey with hints of raisin and dried apricot. Thick and rich on entry before cutting acidity cleans the palate and prevents any cloying nature. Massive concentration, full of fleshy, dried stone fruits and acacia honey. Great density and length, finishing with acid rather than sugar. 2023 - 2028

17.5+/20 Thomas Parker MW, jancisrobinson.com


2016 Tokaji Blue Label 5 Putts, Royal Tokaji

Colour Region Vintage Wine Size Cs Bts GBP
Price
Per Score Help
Hungary2016Tokaji Blue Label 5 Putts, Royal Tokaji Wine Company50/670115.00690+ NMAdd to Basket
All prices exclude UK duty & VAT and all wines are offered subject to remaining unsold. E&OE.

The 2016 Blue Label Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos, which contains 158g/L residual sugar, has an intense nose of dried honey, toffee apple, gingerbread, pumpkin and a touch of ripe canned peaches; I just would like a little more definition and focus. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, lightly spiced and showing a little more cohesion than the aromatics. I love the finish, which offers tangy Seville orange marmalade, quince and just a pinch of sea salt. I would give this a couple of years for the nose to coalesce. 2022 - 2042

90+ points Neal Martin, Vinous.com

TA 9.9 g/l, RS 158 g/l. Bright gold colour. Honeyed apricots and dried peaches with accents of marmalade and exotic spices on the nose. Great concentration of fleshy stone fruits at the core, with glossy honey and sweet vanilla adding to the complexity. Sweet without any sense of stickiness, this is fresh, vibrant and lifted on a long and sumptuous finish. Very, very moreish – the perfect wine to introduce someone to Tokaji. 2020 – 2032

17+/20 Thomas Parker MW, jancisrobinson.com


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