Clos de la Roche VV, Domaine Ponsot 1998

(opened from personal storage). An exquisitely complex yet rather reserved nose of mostly red berry fruit introduces medium weight and distinctly earthy flavors that offer excellent depth and outstanding length. While the structure has largely been resolved there is still some firmness to the impressively persistent finish. For my taste this has arrived on the front edge of it prime drinkability though it should hold here for years to come. I have had pretty consistent experiences with this wine save for one recent bottle that was very badly reduced, indeed to the point where it was hard to really enjoy.

More evolved than the ageless 1999, the 1998 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is approaching full maturity, wafting from the glass with a classy bouquet of dried strawberries, cassis, sweet forest floor, potpourri and cinnamon. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and expansive on the attack, with tangy acids and seemingly melted tannins that turn chalky and assert themselves on the tense, stony finish. 2018 - 2028