Meursault Perrieres, Domaine Coche Dury 2010

Not surprisingly, this is much, much more elegant with its ultra-pure essence of wet stone, citrus, green apple and lightly spiced pear. The intensely mineral-driven and chiseled medium weight flavors possess superb delineation and simply gorgeous underlying tension before exploding onto the racy, dry, saline and stony finish. This is a seriously impressive example though note that my suggested drinking window is not one of this decade! In sum, the 2010 should eventually join other great vintages of this storied wine.

The 2010 Meursault Perrieres is so good that it seems to momentarily stop time. The bouquet is astonishing: laden with limestone scents, white peach, citrus peel and just a hint of truffle that all exhibit razor-sharp delineation. The palate is vibrant and quintessential Perrieres, leaning as it does towards Puligny in style. There is a light lick of wild honey towards the finish that lingers seductively in the mouth and then a deliriously fine honeycomb note on the aftertaste. How this can be a Premier Cru rather than Grand Cru, God only knows. Tasted March 2013.

Pale lemon-yellow. Nose dominated by crushed rock. Like a liqueur of sappy citrus fruits and minerals in the mouth, with electric energy that's almost painful today. Dense, thick, sweet and fine-grained, with a hint of toast adding another element toward the back. Explosive finishing minerality leaves the palate vibrating on the endless aftertaste. Incredible juice, and likely to be very long-lived.

Coche's 2010 Meursault Perrieres covers every inch of the palate with relentless energy and purity. Today the wine is incredibly shut down, yet there is a tension and pure energy that is simply remarkable. The huge, enveloping finish is incredibly tempting, but the reality is that the Perrieres is going to require several years in bottle, at a minimum, to start drinking well. Readers who are able to find it are in for a real treat. Anticipated maturity: 2020+.