Meandro de Vale Meao, Quinta do Vale Meão 2014

The 2014 Meandro do Vale Meão is a 40/30 blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, with 20% Tinta Roriz and small dollops of other grapes. It was aged in well-used French oak (six years) for 13 months and comes in 14.5% alcohol. If you read my accompanying article this issue, you read the forecasts from many (including Meão's winemaker) that Douro Superior was generally one of the best regions in this tough vintage. Here's an example. This Meandro is pretty fine, particularly for a second label. Rather concentrated, tight and surprisingly powerful in its youth, this also shows some flavor underneath, once past the tannins, but it is mostly dry and serious. It looks like a terrific Meandro, focused, intense and elegant. I suspect the tannins will fall off fairly quickly here--how it evolves at that point is my only question mark--and this will drink well on the younger side. It seems able to acquire complexity with time, but I'd like to see it prove that it will hold its concentration level. It could use a year or so to settle down. In a vintage where there aren't many wines to chase after, this one, particularly considering its price point, is a good option.

Plum, boysenberry and currant flavors lead the way in this supple, juicy red, with licorice, smoke and floral notes chiming in on the herb-tinged finish. Drink now through 2019. 15,000 cases made.