Shiraz The Armagh, Jim Barry Wines 2013

Never the flashiest or most opulent Shiraz, The Armagh endures as a savory classic. The 2013 Shiraz The Armagh continues in that same vein, with scents of roasted meat, scorched mulberries and hints of vanilla leading the way. It's dense, concentrated and full-bodied, with supple (almost creamy) tannins that conceal much of their power in their ripeness, without the wine ever seeming too ripe, too oaky or too fruity. Those tannins linger and turn to silk on the long finish, picking up lively red berry and orange zest nuances. Good stuff.

Very youthful and quite cool, dusty and grainy on the back palate, this is an actively difficult wine to assess because it is right in the middle of its grumpy phase. Combative and boisterous, there is still the trademark The Armagh theme here and the potential is not in doubt. I feel it lacks the top notes of the 2010 and 2012, but it is still a lovely wine. 14%

Expressive, rich and dark, featuring black licorice—scented plum and Black Forest cake notes that are plush and spicy, with velvety tannins and notes of chai tea lingering on the finish. Finds tremendous grace and harmony despite the intensity. Drink now through 2030.