Chevalier Montrachet, Domaine Philippe Colin 2017

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is immensely promising, unfurling in the glass with an appropriately reserved nose of lemon oil, candle wax, white currants, toasted bread and dried spring flowers. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and layered with a satiny attack, excellent concentration at the core and a long, expansive finish. This must number among the best kept secrets in grand cru white Burgundy, and I encourage readers to seek it out.

Once again pungent sulfur-tinged aromas dominate the nose. More interesting are the creamy and highly sophisticated medium weight plus flavors that exude plenty of minerality on the impressively long if somewhat one-dimensional finish. This firmly structured effort will clearly need to develop more depth to merit the upper end of my projected range. Note: from a .27 ha parcel

Lovely lemon and lime colour. Significant opulence, relatively ripe, but smells excitingly vibrant. Full of fruit from the start on the palate, with good acidity, but not quite so much intensity at the back.