Côte Rôtie, Xavier Gerard 2015

In 2013, Xavier Gerard’s father – who used to be a part-time winemaker, grower and Crédit-Agricole employee – passed his vines to his son. Xavier spent the decade before that learning the trade at home, as well as travelling extensively, getting experience by working at other wineries. Now in his 30s, he is producing some great wines from his excellent parcels of fruit: Terroir du Mollard giving a mineral character, and those north of Ampuis giving a peppery character to the blend. Gearoid Devaney MS: Immediate, ripe forest berry fruits spring from the glass and unfurl onto a rich palate with good concentration and smooth tannins. It is complex and glossy yet elegant with a fresh finish. Simon Field MW: Classicism in every sense: gently reticent at first then a linear palate emerges, garlanded by red fruit and finely powdered tannins. There is quite an assertive undertow presaging an illustrious evolution. Matt Walls: Just 4% Viognier, but it makes itself known on the nose with a touch of stone fruit among the berries. Soft, ripe, yielding palate, but also concentrated and long, with fine tannins and brisk acidity leading to a long finish. Intense yet easygoing style – very easy to love. 2019-2028

I suspect the finest wine I’ve tasted from this estate, the 2015 Côte Rôtie comes from four terroirs: Mollard, Viallière, la Brosse and la Landonne. Mostly destemmed (70%) and aged in 20% new oak, it has beautifully pure cassis, black raspberry, liquid violet, wood smoke and green olive aromas and flavors. More nuanced and complex than rich and unctuous, it still offers medium to full-bodied richness, sweet tannin and a great finish.

dark red; the nose has 2015 reserve, plays a waiting game, the aroma compact, on mulberry, raspberry. The palate is wrapped in a cosy bundle of savoury content, red juice around it, lengthening on ripe tannins that are layered, squeezy, the length sound, the aftertaste lip smacking. This is more on the vintage than its terroir. Half the stems retained to absorb the alcohol. 14.5°. €31 is very fair. From 2021-22. 2037-40 Dec 2018 ****(*)