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For pure complexity in a restrained, less flamboyant style, the 1996 Chardonnay Lorenzo Vineyard is hors classe. It possesses crisp acidity, an extraordinarily youthful, honeyed citrus-like set of aromatics, full body, admirable concentration, and smoky, roasted hazelnut, mineral-laden flavors that coat the palate, enduring suspended animation for 40+ seconds. These wines are so pure, complex, and irresistible young, it is tempting to think they will not age. A bottle of 1991 Lorenzo Chardonnay (from my cellar) was drunk a few months ago, and to the ecstasy of my guests, there was no evidence that it had lost anything from the magical peak it had attained 3 or 4 years ago! This is just additional evidence that Marcassin's Chardonnays possess more longevity than suspected. The Lorenzo is the star of the non-estate bottled Chardonnays from Marcassin in 1996!