Being in the wine trade has its occasional perks and last night, Tom (Hudson) and I were lucky to enjoy a few great bottles over dinner at one of London's finest restaurants - The Greenhouse.
From the extensive restaurant list was a reasonably priced and spectacular bottle of 1996 Billecart Salmon Blanc de Blancs (18). With such extraordinary balance, racy acidity and gorgeous flavours, this is a classic example of a top 96 Champagne. A real reminder that 96's are worth snapping up while they're still out there. This wine is now hard to find but if you fancy a trip to the Greenhouse, don't hesitate to order the Billecart. It was also a perfect accompaniment to a succession of beautifully presented and precisely flavoured amuses bouches.
Our main courses were enjoyed with three magnificent reds. Our guest, an eminent London lawyer, bon viveur and connoisseur of distinction had selected 1991 Ridge Monte Bello (18.5). This wine was on song and a real delight. A far cry from the typical high-scoring California Cabernet being poised, very refined and classy. Still concentrated but with beautiful balance, silky tannnins and a remarkable finish.
This was followed by a stunning bottle of 1990 Hermitage, Jean-Louis Chave (20) and a spectacular wine it was too. A score of 99 from Robert Parker seems harsh on what was a simply faultless and glorious expression of Syrah. Still so youthful and elegant.
Next came a good but slightly under-whelming bottle of 1989 Cote Rotie, Landonne, Guigal (16.5). It had power but was lacking a little finesse. Almost certainly not a great bottle of this particular wine but still enjoyable.
Lastly was a mystery bottle, initially served blind. Our guest, a Burgundy fanatic was quick to pick it and while the pale tawny colour was a giveaway for mature Bourgogne, he soon pinned down the vintage too. The wine was very fine, light-weight but extremely elegant. On the night it came in 3rd place to the extraordinary Chave and Ridge but still a great experience. It was 1970 Echezeaux, DRC (17).
The Greenhouse's sophisticated food was the match of these great bottles - this restaurant is on absolutely top form at the moment and well worth a visit. It surely wont be long before this place receives a worthy second star!
