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2009 Bordeaux - Reviews from the critics

Friday, 16th April 2010 by Stephen Browett

A week ago we released the Farr Vintners Vintage Report and Tasting Notes for 2009 Bordeaux. Such is the huge interest in this potentially great vintage that the immediate result was that our web site crashed because of the biggest number of "hits" that we ever experienced in one day. We have now upgraded the site both with extra power and also with additional tasting notes. Customers are invited to register their interest by placing "pre-orders" and "wish-lists".

We wait for the crucial views of Robert Parker but most of the the other leading wine critics have now published their reviews. Many of these can be found on our web site by kind permission of the authors.

 

Decanter Magazine gives over 70 wines a score of 18/20 or above! High praise indeed. The vastly experienced, and hugely respected wine writer, Steven Spurrier states that "Many Bordeaux châteaux owners say 2009 is the best vintage the region has experienced, and I agree." He goes on to say that "Comparisons with 2005 are inevitable, with general agreement that while the latter was a more structured vintage, 2009 has more fruit, the higher alcohols are balanced by an overall freshness from natural acidity, and ageing potential is guaranteed by the highest levels of tannin ever recorded in Bordeaux." Decanter gives a perfect 20/20 only to Chateau Margaux but 6 wines score 19.5 and a further 11 score 19. Not surprisingly, it is the big names that receive the highest ratings, but with 18 points there are wines that should be reasonably priced such as Langoa Barton, Domaine de Chevalier and Malartic Lagraviere.

 

Jancis Robinson MW compares 2009 with 1990 "It was inevitable that the 2009 vintage would be compared with 2005, the last 'great' vintage, but although a few of the 2009s notched up exceptionally high tannin readings, they don't seem to have quite the sheer mass and tannic denseness of the 2005s, partly because so many of them have so much luscious flesh that is capable of covering up the exceptionally concentrated tannins. They reminded me more of the lush hedonism offered by the 1990s" Jancis is more cautious with her scores. There are no wines with 20 or 19.5 and just 7 wines score 19 or 19+ and all of these are First Growths except for Raymond Lafon in Sauternes. What is noticeable with the Jancis Robinson reviews, is that she rates many modestly priced wines only just behind the superstar names (which are bound to be much more expensive). Wines such as du Tertre, Chapelle de la Mission, Haut Batailley and La Dominique score 17.5. She certainly seems to be of the opinion that it is not necessary for consumers to buy only the top names in 2009. In fact, she quite dislikes some of the vintage's blockbusters such as Montrose and Cos d'Estournel.

 

James Suckling in The Wine Spectator is very bullish. He gives his highest possible score of 97-100 to 15 wines with 9 more receiving 96-99 including Lynch Bages. In the 97-100 bracket there are First Growths of course, but also Cos d'Estournel, Montrose and the biggest surprise of all, Malescot Saint Exupery. He writes "I love the way the wines have such opulent fruit backed by powerful tannins. Yet the tannins are round and polished. In addition, the reds are fresh and vibrant. A lot of people make comparisons to 1982, which I have to agree with to some extent but, honestly, I think they are better." His 2 favourite wines seem to be the same as ours, Latour and Mouton Rothschild. There are plenty of wines with ratings in the 90's that should be modestly priced. These include Aiguilhe, Les Cruzelles, Phelan Segur, Lagrange, Haut Simard and Les Ormes de Pez.

Derek Smedley MW comments that 2009 is not as even across the board as 2005 yet the potential for greatness reminded him of stunning years such as 1990 and 1961 (both of which Derek tasted en primeur!). He finds Saint Emilion the weakest region as some producers have got their Merlots too ripe with resulting rather burning alcohols, lack of freshness or acidities that feel bitter. On the left bank "Cabernet Sauvignon reigned supreme producing depth of flavour, richness yet sleekness and elegance". Vieux Chateau Certan is his top scoring non-First Growth

 

Barry Phillips includes Grand Puy Lacoste and Rauzan Segla in his list of the vintage's best wines and in his "best value" section he recommends wines such as Les Cruzelles, Lafon Rochet and Lagrange.

Neal Martin has to date only published his notes on Saint Estephe, Pauillac, Saint Julien and Margaux on eRobertParker.com. Latour and Lafite receive the top score of 98-100 with Leoville Lascases, Rauzan Segla, Montrose and Pichon Baron just behind. In fact Rauzan Segla receives the same score as Chateau Margaux. The biggest surprise is a huge 94-96 point score for the (usually) modestly priced 5th growth Chateau Batailley - higher than Pichon Lalande, Ducru Beaucaillou and Cos d'Estournel.

Today we saw the release of what will be one of the best value red wines of the 2009 vintage. Jean-Michel Cazes (of Lynch Bages) has put his Villa Bel-Air on the market at £110 in bond. This is the best vintage that we have ever tasted of this attractive, smoky Graves and it will provide delicious early drinking.

Please note that you can read this review and all the latest news as it breaks on the Latest News pages of the En Primeur section of our site.

 

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