Chateau Puech-Haut

One of the most exciting discoveries for Farr Vintners this year has been that of Chateau Puech-Haut. We have now sold over 13,000 bottles of their “Cuvée Prestige” 2009 so a visit was well overdue. The property is situated in the foothills of the Cevennes mountains about 40 miles South-West of Chateauneuf du Pape. At the beginning of the 1980’s the land, formerly “garrigue” and olive groves, was purchased by Gerard Bru for whom Puech-Haut is a real labour of love. Indeed, a very long-term labour of love. He planted vines, mainly Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre in a terroir that resembles Chateauneuf with its large stones, known locally as “galets”. Subsequently a small parcel of 60 year old Carignan vines was also purchased. The vines that Bru planted (which are farmed organically) gradually matured, but until 1996 the grapes were sold off each year to the local co-operative. Only then did production finally start under the Chateau’s own label.

Chateau du Puech-Haut

The first wines produced here were made under the control of Michel Rolland and appear to have been decent but not exceptional. However, things seem to have got really serious in recent years following the appointments of local boys Mathieu Cimapi, as winemaker in 2008, and Philippe Cambie as consultant oenologist. Cambie is regarded as the Guru of Rhone winemakers and is the man behind many of the greatest Rhone wines produced in recent times. He is a firm believer in the quality and use of Grenache. Cambie is credited by many as the man who turned the Southern Rhone around. He is continually noted by Robert Parker as the region’s premier consultant and oenologist. Parker recently described him as “A visionary genius” and pronounced him “Oenologue of the year 2010”. Cambie is also the name behind such famous names as Saint Prefert, Clos du Caillou, Clos Saint Jean, Vieux Donjon and Domaine des Senechaux.

Vines at Puech-Haut

I visited the Chateau, which is reached by a long avenue of Olive trees, in August 2011. Gerard Bru and Mathieu Cimapi were there to meet us, show us around the winery and give us a tasting of their wines. There are a couple of rosés made here and some good whites that are produced from Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Viognier. But, what I really wanted to re-taste was the red Cuvée Prestige 2009 which has been such an astonishingly successful wine for Farr Vintners this year. I learnt that this wine is made from 65% Syrah and 35% Grenache and is aged in concrete tanks as shown in the photo here. Some of the Syrah has a little time in 2 year old wooden barrels. This is a wine with lovely, rich, dark fruit and a nice touch of spice. The palate is quite “Chateauneuf” in style, warm with notes of leather and garrique and a touch of chocolate. A real “winter-warmer” of a wine. It’s certainly very impressive and I can understand why Robert Parker rated it 93 points even if I think he may be a little generous with that score.

Concrete Tanks

However, certainly worthy of a huge score was the next wine in the range – the 2009 “Tete de Belier”, which Mr Parker has yet to taste. If the Prestige is a 93 point wine then this deserves at least 95 points because it is a big step up in my opinion. The blend here is 55% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre and 5% old vine Carignan. The grapes for this special cuvée come from vines from the Northern part of the vineyard exposed to the Mistral wind and the yield is only 20 hectolitres per hectare. After de-stemming and maceration for 35-50 days, the Syrah and Mourvedre are aged in oak barrels, some of which are new, for 18 months. The Grenache and Carignan remain in concrete tanks – clearly more suitable for these varieties. This is a wine of fabulous intensity with gorgeous ripe, black fruit but a smooth and velvety mouth-feel from the wine-making. Intense yet polished, this is certainly one of the best wines from the Languedoc that I have ever tasted.

Tête de Bélier

What I tasted was an assemblage of all the component parts just prior to bottling. The wine will be bottled in September 2011 with delivery to our cellars in October. The price will be £180 per case. It is available to order now.

After we had tried these two excellent, and good value, reds we then moved on to some micro-cuvées that we may be able to offer for sale shortly:

• 2009 Quercus – This wine is 100% Grenache and weighs in at 16.5% alcohol. Aged entirely in concrete tanks. As you can imagine, this is a wine that is incredibly hot, heavy and powerful. Thick and dense and a real monster.
• 2009 Recantou – This is 100% Syrah made in 50% new oak, 50% one year old oak. This reminded me very much of a Guigal or Chapoutier Northern Rhône. Lots of spice, hints of bacon fat. Rich and opulent with a creamy texture from the new oak.
• 2009 Bosc Negre – 100% Mourvedre that was matured in 600 litre barrels. This has tannin and structure and I really liked the controlled exoticism of this wine. Classy and stylish.
• 2009 Cante Lebre – This is made from a third each Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache with the Syrah and Mourvedre matured in 100% new oak. Powerful and exotic with a touch of coconut. Sweet and rich but the Mourvedre gives it balance.
• 2009 Clos du Pic – This is made from vines at a higher altitude and contains 70% Mourvedre and 30% Syrah which has been matured for 18 months in second year oak. Smooth fruit but there are firm tannins too. Structured but stylish.

The barrel cellar

These cuvees were fascinating to taste but will probably be very expensive to buy. They certainly show the great potential that is here at Chateau Puech-Haut. I am sure that these are amongst the finest wines of the Languedoc region and can they can challenge some of the top names of the Rhône Valley too.

Owner Gerard Bru