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The Outstanding Morgons of Jean-Marc Burgaud

Beaujolais remains an area of outstanding value in France, as the regions to its north and south balloon in price. The cru wines offer superb quality at, frankly, ludicrously cheap prices. One such example are the Morgons of Jean-Marc Burgaud. 

Morgon is rightly one of the highest-regarded sites in Beaujolais, positioned beautifully on rolling south and southwest-facing hills. The cru level wines produced here are some of the most dense, rich and ageworthy of the region. Granite and schist soils with some volcanic rock aid the structure of the wines - these are not wines that fade in five years. There are six separate climats within this cru, all producing distinct and delicious wines. 

Jean-Marc Burgaud is one of the best producers in the region. From 19 hectares of vineyard in Beaujolais, he owns 13 hectares of Morgon, bottled as separate crus to highlight their individual characteristics. The Wine Advocate's William Kelley says he is "a winemaker at the peak of his powers," whose wines are "some of the most consistently delicious wines being produced in the region today." New oak has been dropped in favour of older, seasoned wood, with some carbonic maceration softened by traditional fermentation and the maturation process. 

We have just procured a small parcel of three crus in 2020: Côte du Py, Les Charmes and Grand Cras. All receive between 93 and 94 points from Kelley. Côte du Py is Burgaud's flagship bottling, which he has now produced for 31 years, and is "one of the region's most dependable classics" according to Kelley. Les Charmes lies at the west side of Morgon on high south-facing slopes of largely granitic soils and is "velvety and vibrant." Grand Cras is "a particular success" in 2020 says Kelley. The vines are at the very south of the Morgon cru on more alluvial soils. 

The wines are staggeringly good value. Bottles of the Côte du Py are now sold out, but magnums are £220 per six, with the other two cuvées just £200 per dozen. It is hard to think of many wines that offer a better quality to price ratio, combining typicity, drinkability and ageability at a great price point. 

2020 Morgon Cote du Py, Burgaud

Colour Region Vintage Wine Size Qty Units Price IB GBP Per Score
Burgundy2020Morgon Cote du Py, Domaine Jean-Marc BurgaudMG1 \ 06220.00694 WK624.44444494.0094.00Morgon Cote du Py, Burgaud, Jean-Marc1.510
Wines are offered subject to remaining unsold. E&OE.

The 2020 Morgon Côte du Py is one of the region's most dependable classics, unfurling in the glass with notes of cassis, sweet berry fruit, spices and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with lively acids, powdery tannins and a seamless, complete profile, it concludes with a long, mouthwatering finish. 2021 - 2035

94
William Kelley, Wine Advocate, August 2021

2020 Morgon Les Charmes, Burgaud

Colour Region Vintage Wine Size Qty Units Price IB GBP Per Score
Burgundy2020Morgon Les Charmes, Domaine Jean-Marc BurgaudBT2 \ 024200.001293 WK2422.22222133333393.0093.00Morgon Les Charmes, Burgaud, Jean-Marc0.7510
Wines are offered subject to remaining unsold. E&OE.

The 2020 Morgon Les Charmes wafts from the glass with aromas of cherries, cassis, sweet soil tones, violets and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and vibrant, with a fleshy core of fruit, ripe tannins and lively acids, it's nicely concentrated, concluding with a long, perfumed finish. 2021 - 2033

93
William Kelley, Wine Advocate, August 2021

2020 Morgon Grand Cras, Burgaud

Colour Region Vintage Wine Size Qty Units Price IB GBP Per Score
Burgundy2020Morgon Grand Cras, Domaine Jean-Marc BurgaudBT3 \ 036200.001293 WK3622.22222133333393.0093.00Morgon Grand Cras, Burgaud, Jean-Marc0.7510
Wines are offered subject to remaining unsold. E&OE.

Aromas of cherries, wild berries, rose petals and licorice introduce the 2020 Morgon Grand Cras, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping wine that's deep and layered. Built around bright acids and melting tannins, it's ample but precise, concluding with a long, expansive finish. This is a particular success chez Burgaud this year. 2021 - 2033

93
William Kelley, Wine Advocate, August 2021
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