Following the success of our March offer of his Margaret River Chardonnay we have something a little different from Larry Cherubino: 2022 Riesling “Uovo”.
Cherubino is widely recognised as one of Australia’s most successful and innovative winemakers and his range of Uovo wines are made in clay cement ovoid tanks – giant eggs (hence Uovo). The nature of the egg is such that a constant vortex-like current within the tank forces the lees upward, lending the wine a texture and vibrancy that is otherwise hard to achieve. Michel Chapoutier was the first winemaker to have the idea.
The fruit comes from vines in the Frankland River region of Western Australia, planted in 1998 on South-facing gravel and lacerite soils at an elevation of 150 metres.
The Wine Advocate’s Erin Larkin rates the wine 96 points – a hefty score for a wine at this price – and a sample sent to us from Australia impressed us all here at Farr HQ. Unquestionably Riesling in character, lean, dry and coming in at a refreshing 11.5% alcohol, it will be perfect for the Summer and will likely keep and soften out for at least a decade.
Production of the wine is miniscule - just 1,380 bottles. Originally destined to stay in Australia, we have persuaded Larry to let us have some for the UK. The wine is currently lying at the winery and will ship to us by June.
The 2022 Uovo Riesling is from Frankland River was made in a clay cement tank—an egg, hence, "uovo" in the name. The aromas utter whispers of cheesecloth, beeswax, Geraldton Wax flower, crushed pistachio, cold buttered toast, leafy herbs and green caper brine. It's softer (not hard) than the Cherubino Rieslings. The texture here is most attractive, alluring even. I love the way it plays out in the mouth through the finish. It is chalky and briney and super pretty. Excellent. 11.5% alcohol sealed under screw cap. 2023-2037.
Given its name by the concrete egg in which the wine is fermented, the Uovo Riesling from Cherubino comes in at a modest 11.6% alcohol with 2g/l residual sugar - it feels dry with just a touch of body lent by the sugar. Watery lemon-green in colour, the nose is quintessential dry Riesling, offering lime and lemon, white flowers and a hint of citrusy herbs. The palate is tense and acid-driven, with waves of steely freshness forming the structure. Ample citrus fruit wraps around the piercing acidity, giving zesty, floral and herbal tones in turn. Fine-boned but very long, this is a wine to enjoy now, or over the next decade. Bottled under screwcap.
