The wines of Pyramid Valley are born in the dramatic soils and slopes of the Waikari Estate in North Canterbury. Waikari is a unique site where rich, rocky, limestone and clay derived soils sit on high-altitude north and east facing slopes. We have been fans from the start and, since Steve Smith MW and winemaker Huw Kitch took the helm in 2018, the wines have developed a precision and character that sets them apart from pretty much anything else being made in New Zealand today.
The climate here is genuinely cool and the winemaking is totally biodynamic. There are few winemakers in any part of the world who are so dedicated to their wines speaking of the place that they are from and we are great fans of what is being made here. The nature of their location is such that viticulture is always on the edge: the 2021 vintage was knocked out in its entirety by frost and we are delighted to have the wines back with the 2022 vintage.
The Chardonnays are two sides of the same coin, both seeing the same vinification and élévage. Field of Fire is from a south-east facing site with shallow clays over limestone and is the bold, powerful and textural wine of the two: all cream, butter and ripe orchard fruits. In her 95 point review Rebecca Gibb MW says "this isn't shy", elaborating "its quality is not in its flavors but its texture and power." Lion's Tooth comes from steep, east-facing clay and active-lime soils and practically fizzes with energy. Gibb scores it 96 and calls it "meditation for the mouth" as it "draws you in with its harmony, expansive nature, silken texture and sense of tranquility".
The Pinots are equally divergent representations of their place. Angel Flower comes from steep north-facing soils similar to Lion's Tooth and is a remarkably pale garnet colour - but don't let that fool you. The nose is expansive and intense; this is ethereal but intense and floral Pinot. Gibb says it is "calm, collected and equivalent to a ball of silk for the mouth." By contrast Earth Smoke - from a broad east-facing slope - is much darker and more structured with a Vosne-like spice. Gibb gives this 95 points, praising its "plentiful concentration without weight."
Undoubtedly Burgundian in style, these are outstanding examples of just what can be done with exceptional terroir, assiduous viticulture and winemaking, and no little skill on the part of Steve and Huw.
