Just shy of two years ago we were introduced to the wines of Larry Cherubino. We had never heard of Larry or his wines, though the enthusiasm of the importer who had discovered him was immediately justified by the quality on show across the board. We have followed Larry and his wines ever since.
His 2024 Pemberton Chardonnay is one of the finest white wines from Australia we have ever had on the Farr tasting bench. Indeed given the price it is very hard to think of anything that matches it. Sourced from fruit grown in the Channybearup vineyard, which is hand harvested then whole-bunched pressed directly into a mix of new and used French oak, it is bottled after 8 months in barrel under the black Cherubino label, which represents the top percentile of what the estate offers.
The result is magnificent. Though the time in barrel is quite short, the impact is measured and integrated with a sense of struck-match reduction and spice cloaked by jewels of intense, succulent fruit. A marked salinity and exotic pepperiness give due seasoning and verve without masking the beautiful, pristine flavours that give it a sense of place. Erin Larkin of the Wine Advocate scores the wine 97 points in her January article for the Wine Advocate: “This is easily the best Pemberton Chardonnay I have seen from Cherubino … This is utterly superb!”. Our own Thomas Parker MW is at 96+: “Larry Cherubino continues to make some of the best wine we have tasted from anywhere in Australia”.
At £150 per six in bond, it is less than half the price of the least expensive Puligny on our list, and that's not even looking at the scores. Moreover, it is a truly hand-crafted wine, with a real character and charm to it. Already completely delicious, it will keep and develop over the next five to ten years and is bottled under screwcap so no variability issues down the line.
The 2024 Pemberton Chardonnay is rich, toasty and nutty on the nose, with notes of brûlée top, flambéed peach, cashews, lemon oil and white peach. The acidity on the palate is scintillating and serves to sensationally balance the opulence of the fruit. This is easily the best Pemberton Chardonnay I have seen from Cherubino, something I would not have predicted given some of the challenges of the hot, dry season. There's not a skerrick of that to be seen here. This is utterly superb! 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink 2025-2034.
Another fantastic rendition of the Pemberton Chardonnay, the 2024 has a crystalline precision on the nose, with drops of yuzu, green melon and white peach together with subtle and complementary tones of struck flint. The palate has a real salinity, showing preserved lemon and more of that green melon fruit together with something reminiscent of Szechuan pepper. The texture and depth of flavour from ageing in puncheons gives this wine real oomph and a moreish tang on the finish - there is body without any hint of excess or tropical fruit. Beautifully delineated and pure through to a very long finish, Larry Cherubino continues to make some of the best wine we have tasted from anywhere in Australia at a very reasonable price.
