| Region | |
|---|---|
| Subregion | France > Champagne |
| Colour | White |
| Type | Sparkling |
The 2019 Blanc de Noirs Les Barres continues to go from strength to strength and comes dangerously close to becoming the first Pinot Meunier ever awarded 100 points by The Wine Advocate. Long underappreciated, Pinot Meunier finds transcendence here—not merely through the cépage itself but through the own-rooted, ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vines that define this cuvée, combined with the application of Chartogne’s methods, which favor the extraction of mineral component over the varietal aromas (which mark out so many Poinot Meuniers). Grown in a south-facing site with 1.6-meter-deep sandy-limestone soils over Campanian chalk, the wine is matured for nine months in barrels of various age, which are intentionally left untopped during the winter. Disgorged in April 2024 with a dosage of 4.25 grams per liter, it bursts from the glass with a sumptuous bouquet of honeysuckle, crisp pear, tangerine, pastries and spices. On the palate, it is full-bodied and multidimensional, with enormous concentration and flavor intensity. Despite its amplitude, the wine is anchored by ample chalky extract and mouthwatering acidity that lends it precision and carries through the chalky finish. One should not limit expectations based on the grape variety or the vineyard’s classification—this is a work from a vigneron at the peak of his artistry, drawn from one of the greatest vintages in modern times.
