Vosne Romanée Malconsorts, Domaine Dujac 2023

The 2023 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts was another wine that underwent a rather late malolactic fermentation, but it was nonetheless showing extremely well, wafting from the glass with notes of cherries and cassis mingled with notions of exotic spices and burning embers. Medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, it's rich and fleshy, with sweet tannins and a long, expansive finish.

Mixed ages from the 1960s through to 1996, and they have recently top grafted some of the younger vines. Picked a little later in the series. Since 2020 Jeremy has opted for less extraction having realised that Malconsorts will always stay firm. Just racked back to barrel after a very late malolactic. This is sensual, absolutely on the cusp of red and black fruit, with energy provided by the whole bunches to stop it becoming too rich.

An ultra-floral-suffused nose features airy aromas of mostly red berries and more discreet spice nuances. The highly energetic and beautifully detailed larger-bodied flavors possess excellent volume and minerality while delivering outstanding power and length on the tightly wound finale. Like the Combottes, Seysses indicated that the malo finished late and it shows as this is presently distinctly primary. (Drink starting 2038)