Volnay Clos des Ducs, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville 1990

The '90 has always struck me as an atypical Clos des Ducs without the supreme elegance it normally displays. The color is still completely dark with no bricking while displaying extremely rich and ripe secondary fruit though it stops short of the surmaturité that marks many '90s, along with notes of earth and a hint of sous bois. Like the '91, this is a notably large-scaled Ducster and one that remains quite tannic but with good supporting extract on the rich, bold and almost impressively powerful flavors that are delicious and hugely long if somewhat atypical. This is a dramatic effort that is undeniably extraordinary for its size, weight and power though I confess that it is not really my cup of Clos des Ducs. That said, I suspect that most people would find the '90 to be an imposing and altogether persuasive effort. Note that like the '91, this will continue to age effortlessly for many years to come.

This bottle of 1990 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs showed much better than the previous one encountered in the 2010 vertical. It has an endearing, warm and inviting bouquet with hints of peppermint and chlorophyll, that white peach tincture infusing the brambly red fruit. The palate is well balanced and disguises the warmth of that growing season, maintaining freshness and poise. The core of red cherries and blackberry interwoven with citric lemon fruit is wonderful, although the 1993 possesses more pixelation on the finish. Still, this is a very fine Clos des Ducs. 2014 - 2030