Triolet, Mount Mary 2022

The 2022 Triolet leads with roasted pineapple, lemongrass, tatami mat and white flowers. There's a toasty aspect to the wine, no doubt from the oak, and this plays into the hands of the spices, including ground white pepper, shaved fennel, a smattering of za'atar—all great things. So, the palate gives us what the nose has promised, along with a cavalcade of white orchard fruits, crushed nuts and salted preserved citrus. All of it is shaped by taut acidity and fine, chalky phenolics. We know this wine ages with grace, and so it feels almost wasteful to be opening it so young. The estate vineyard is planted to 75% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon and 5% Muscadelle, which reflects the general cépage of the wine each year (2021, for example, has less Sauvignon Blanc but more of the others). It matured for 11 months in barrel. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink: 2024-2037

Refined and pure aromas of lemon peel, chalk, beeswax, orange blossoms and white flowers. The palate is medium-bodied with striking acidity and a creamy texture, giving notes of lanolin, freshly cut pineapple, grapefruit rind, flint and river stones. Very complex and complete, with an underlying tension and minerality. Made from 65% sauvignon blanc, 25% semillon and 10% muscadelle. Exceptional. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Smells of greengage and apples. And then, OMG, the intensity of this wine is absolutely stunning. Reine Claude, mirabelle, honey and elder, in almost shocking concentration. Loads of sweet fennel, fennel pollen, fennel seeds. Green olive into a briny finish. And so much grip. Prismic architecture. Structural precision. Length that seems to carve the air. A wine that almost shook me with its intensity. Drink: 2025-2035