Haut Brion 1975

The Château Haut-Brion 1975 has been variable in the past, however this is one of the better examples with deep garnet color. The nose is lively with leather and scorched earth scents infusing the dusky black fruit, later a faint touch of terracotta coming through. The palate is well balanced, quite animally and feral for a respectable First Growth, but that is exactly what lends it its charm. There is just some dryness creeping in on the finish, so I would drink bottles over the next ten years or so. Perhaps given the quality of its sister La Mission Haut-Brion in this year, you would expect more, but it remains a delightful, self-effacing Haut-Brion that is best consumed sooner rather than later. Tasted July 2014.

Note that this was Graves in 1975, as Pessac Léognan appellation was not created until 1987. I tasted this separately from the others in this lineup at Haut-Brion with Jean-Bernard Delmas, who was making the wine at the time. This has walnut-edged tones to the colour, and is surprisingly dark. The nose is fragrant, violet-laced, full of classic Haut-Brion markers of leather, tobacco, woodsmoke, saffron, with a subtle smoky edge of grilled fig jam. A fascinating wine to look at in comparison to the Médocs also. Money may have been tight for most of the other estates, but at Haut-Brion the American Dillon family was continuing to inves, meaning new oak and stainless steel vats. And where malolactic was just getting started at many Médoc estates, Haut-Brion had been regularly practicing this secondary fermentation since 1962. The estate’s proximity and close relations with the school of oenology – and Emile Peynaud – will have played its part here. Delmas said this was tasting ‘infinitely better than 10 years ago’. A silky, caressing and terribly charming wine. (Drink between 2015-2023)

The 1975 Haut Brion is fully mature, yet is certainly one of the finest wines in the vintage. Its plummy color is followed by a classic Haut Brion bouquet of ripe blackcurrants, plums, tobacco leaf, scorched earth and roasted herbs. This is followed by a shockingly concentrated, full-bodied wine that has a beautiful opulence and silkiness, as well as plenty of sweet fruit developing with time in the glass. There’s no upside, but it’s beautiful wine. (Drink between 2017-2022)