Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin, J-L Chave 2009

Although virtually impossible to find, the 2009 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin is equal to, but somewhat different from the 2009 Hermitage. From Les Bessards, this offering is only made if doing so does not compromise the integrity and quality of their other Hermitage. The 2009 Cuvee Cathelin reveals more smoky new oak as well as higher levels of graphite and pen ink, but the minerality and extraordinary richness of fruit are similar to what is found in the regular 2009 Hermitage. A 50 to 100-year wine, it is a privilege to taste and to recognize that the Chave family, which goes back to the late 1400s with an unbroken succession of Chaves making Hermitage and St.-Joseph, continues to push the envelope of quality.

Last year I gave the 2009 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin a three-digit rating, but it was nice to be able to re-taste it since it is largely impossible to find in the marketplace. Essentially 100% fruit from Les Bessards, this cuvee is only made in vintages where it will not compromise the integrity and quality of their standard Hermitage (although there is nothing standard about it). The Cuvee Cathelin sees more oak than its sibling, enjoys 50-75 years of aging potential, and boasts over-the-top blackberry and cassis fruit notes intertwined with pen ink, spring flower, graphite and subtle vanillin characteristics. It is a brilliant wine that almost defies description given its ethereal complexity allied to massive weight, power and richness. Yet, it never comes across as heavy or overly-extracted. Forget this for another decade and you and your progeny can enjoy it over the following 50-75 years.