| Region | |
|---|---|
| Subregion | France > Burgundy > Beaujolais |
| Colour | Red |
| Type | Still |
A 2010 Moulin-a-Vent Clos de Rochegres originates in the high-elevation site that is by de Castelnau's account farthest advanced in Chateau des Jacques's conversion to biodynamic farming, thanks he says to the diligent collaboration of those participating vignerons who are responsible for day-to-day work in these particular vines. Decidedly the most carnal wine in its collection, this emphasizes both smoked and fresh red meats and displays a sappy sense of extract-richness even though tart black fruits are not to the fore. Saliva-inducing salinity, tincture of iodine, and what I can only describe - even if this is merely from power-of-suggestion - as iron filings introduce dynamic and depth to a sustained finish. This finely-tannic, energetic though hardly effusive Moulin-a-Vent should benefit from a couple of years in bottle and merit attention for six or more. (The fruit intensity and surf-and-turf depth vibrantly displayed today by the 2009 Rochegres easily merit my highest issue 190 expectations and confirm that wine as among the prime candidates for wine-of-the-vintage.)
The 2010 Clos de Rochegrès from Château des Jacques is a superb and youthful bottle of Moulin-à-Vent, offering up great purity on both the nose and palate and a proper, 2010 structure that should reward long aging. The superb nose wafts from the glass in a classic mélange of dark berries, black cherries, granite, woodsmoke, a touch of dark chocolate, fresh thyme and a discreet base of cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and beautifully balanced, with excellent, nascent complexity, fine mid-palate depth, moderate tannins and a long, tangy and quite youthful finish. This will need four or five years to really reach its apogee and should have no problem continuing to evolve for another twenty years or more. It is a finer and more precise bottle than the Clos du Grand Carquelin, which has a bit more inherent opulence built into it and which will eventually come to the fore when the wine blossoms. Which one you will prefer is a matter of personal preference, as they will both be beautiful and classic examples of Moulin-à-Vent. (Drink between 2016-2035)
