Puligny Combettes, Domaine Leflaive 2023

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru has what I might call a "cerebral" nose: it blossoms in the glass, a little more pithy with perhaps a touch more solids. The palate is beautifully balanced with real intensity, very good tension and energy and a hint of orange pith towards the finish. I admit…I had to swallow this wine. Fabulous. (Drink between 2027-2050)

A more reserved though more elegant nose somewhat grudgingly offers up its array of the essence of pear, exotic tea, blend of floral elements and a background whiff of petrol. The super-sleek and more refined middle weight flavors also retain excellent delineation that carries over to the bitter zest-inflected finale that is both slightly longer and a bit more compact as well. This classy effort is exceptionally promising and a wine that should age gracefully for a decade plus. (Drink starting 2035)