Hilltops Shiraz, Clonakilla 2023

The 2023 Hilltops Shiraz leads with dark fruit and spices—exotic spice, dry woodsy spices and warm baking spice. The top notes carry wafts of cooling mineral elements and even petrichor. Dark berry fruit in the mouth interlock seamlessly with fine tannins, making for a svelte Shiraz of supreme elegance.

Fragrant, perfumed and vibrant, with aromas of red cherries, cured meat, pencil shavings, raspberries, white pepper, violets, dried herbs and sandalwood. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, powdery tannins and bright acidity, offering a supple, fresh mouthfeel with a long, spice-driven finish. Pure and energetic. Drink or hold.

A bit of a chameleon as it first appears spicy and herbal with sweet-sour flavours, then it changes to gutsy and flavoursome with a little meaty reduction. Still finding its way perhaps. It’s inky, with wafts of bitumen and pepper, flavours of kirsch, dark plums and cedary oak. Fuller bodied and fleshy with plentiful tannins; there’s a certain refinement, too, with fine acidity in tow.

This is ridiculous value. If the limited supply, or the price, of their iconic Shiraz Viognier puts you off, but you still want to see what all the fuss is about, you have no excuse not to load up on this wine. From a selection of five vineyards in the Hilltops region, fermentation was over two weeks, with no whole bunches included. The wine spent a year maturing in French oak. The colour here is a vibrant purple and the wine, as always, is beautifully constructed. Alluring aromas with spices, pepper, blueberries and red fruits, dry herbs and raspberries all present and correct. The wine has fresh acidity, silky tannins and a long and lingering finish with near perfect balance. A ten year proposition, if you can keep your hands off it, and good luck with that.