Chardonnay Uovo, Cherubino 2024

The 2024 Uovo Chardonnay is savory, textural and salty, with chalky phenolics that really grip the core of fruit. This has a creamy nuttiness about it that is typical of the Cherubino house style (and we love it for that), but the impact of the concrete egg here is a tightening of texture and shape through the finish. This is an excellent wine, one that comes highly recommended. The fruit is from Pemberton, a cool and wet area in Western Australia's Southern Forest area—a place of towering Karri trees and adjacent to the best growing area for truffles in Australia, Manjimup. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink 2025-2035

Made in a clay cement ovoid tank (hence Uovo), this wine is therefore unmarked by wood and has a hit of reduction that will appeal to those who like their Chardonnays with a real hit of struck match. The nose is led by this note, together with lemon tart and passion flower. The palate has a supple texture from the lees, rounding the fine edges, zesty acidity and chalky texture. More lemon curd, struck flint and sweeter, plump stone fruits come through. There is a non wood level of peppery spice throughout, partly reduction and partly site. This is a lip-smacking, moreish wine that I would give a light decant if approaching now, and ensure not to serve too cold so the fruit and texture show their best.