CDP Combe des Fous, Clos Saint-Jean 2003

The dark ruby/purple-tinged 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous (60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault, and 10% Vaccarese, with everything but the Mourvedre aged in tank - the Mourvedre is put in small barrels) has a big, sweet, heady nose that is almost flamboyant, with notes of cassis, raspberry, plum, fig, cherry, licorice, pepper, and dried herbs. It's not over the top, but it comes pretty close in the full-bodied, rich, luscious attack, mid-palate, and finish. Wonderfully pure wine that has low acidity, high glycerin, and heady alcohol, this wine should obviously drink well for 12-14 years.

The first vintage for this cuvee, the 2003 Clos Saint Jean Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous (60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Vaccarese) is drinking beautifully. It delivers a blast of kirsch liqueur, plum sauce, sushi wrapper, licorice and meat juice that flows to a full-bodied, chewy and rich palate. A hedonistically-styled Chateauneuf du Pape all the way, it stays light and elegant in the mouth, and reveals a core of sweet fruit and ripe tannin on the finish. Superb now, it will continue to evolve gracefully for another 5-10 years.