Volnay Clos de la Bousse d'Or, Domaine de la Pousse d'Or 2005

Here the strikingly elegant and expressive nose is a step up in aromatic depth with real depth to the airy, pure and stunningly complex dark berry fruit aromas nuanced by hints of spice and warm iron-infused earth that give way to rich, full and sweet flavors that are harmonious, balanced, fresh and precise, all wrapped in a wonderfully seductive and long finish. An impressive effort that is well worth a look.

The 2005 Volnay Clos de la Bousse d'Or offers scents of plum, black raspberry, Asian spices, soy, noble fungus and wood smoke. In the mouth, it delivers tart (though ripe) black raspberry fruit with black truffle undertones and subtle spice and chalk, while managing to display a flattering creaminess. Fascinating fungal, fruit skin and mineral notes vie for attention in the finish. This strikes an ideal balance between flattering fat and underlying structure. Figure to cellar it for at least 12-15 years. Also recommended: 2005 Volnay Caillerets ($104.00; 86+?).In the decade since the ambitious and conscientious Patrick Landanger (who just bought an estate in the Douro, whence he was headed the Sunday we met) purchased Pousse d'Or, he has expanded the holdings to include parcels in Corton and Puligny Caillerets, and made huge investments in the vineyards and cellar. Not surprisingly given nature's role, the 2005s - which he called unproblematic in every respect - look to set new quality standards for his tenure. Landanger says he was very sparing with punch-downs this year and entirely eschews pump-overs because he never pumps (and thus doesn't filter either). The wines had just been bottled, and a couple of them appeared to be laboring under the effects of this (or at least of the sulfur administered beforehand).