Volnay Clos des Ducs, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville 1993

Beautifully fragrant with the same direct olfactory line between the fruit and the mineral-laced soil in which the vines of Clos des Ducs grow. The minerality of the '93 is vivid, almost pungent in its power and purity as though it were the distilled essence of crystalline limestone. As yet, the 93 is still quite reserved and not especially developed; it is in fact, still quite structured at the moment but the purity of expression is mind boggling as is the supreme elegance by which the flavors are layered, one upon another, seemingly without end. Denser than the '96 with the same bright acidity, this is still in its infancy. In fact, the character is rather one of a brooding infant and this was the only wine that reacted to continued aeration by shutting down, rather than opening further. A monumental Clos des Ducs in the making and it will probably be the longest-lived wine among these. Multiple and consistent notes.