Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione, Podere Salicutti 2004

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione possesses striking depth, transparency and weightlessness as it opens up in the glass. This deeply-scented, layered Brunello offers superb pedigree and class in its ripe red cherries, wild herbs, tobacco, spices and licorice, with a powerful blast of melted road tar that provides the final exclamation point. A firm, structured wine, the profound 2004 Piaggione desperately needs some bottle age, but readers will have a hard time finding a wine with this much sheer class and pedigree. The Piaggione spent two years in medium-size French oak barrels and was neither fined nor filtered prior to bottling. This is a wonderful effort. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.

Aromas of plums and dried mushrooms follow through to a full body, with soft and silky tannins, ripe plum character and a long finish. A little tight still. Best from 2010 through 2014. 665 cases made.