Lafleur 1986

The 1986 Lafleur is a vintage that I have not tasted for some time, from a season that favoured the Left Bank over the Right. Nevertheless, it has a surprisingly high-toned nose with blackberry and blueberry fruit, cedar, iodine and antique bureau. The palate is clearly more austere and less complex than that of the 1985, quite linear and "correct" in style with, yes, a little rusticity. I find this larger format better than the handful of bottled examples that I have tasted, though I would broach this over the next decade and before the 1985. Tasted from ex-château magnum at Kate & Kon's 40-year vertical in Austria.

The 1986 was dumb, muted, and disappointing when first poured, but 30 minutes later it was blossoming beautifully, and continued to gain in strength, bouquet, and stature for the next several hours. When retasted later in the evening, it appeared young, backward, and extremely promising. It may ultimately turn out like the stunning 1966.

One of the few Right Bank wines in this vintage that can stand up to the powerful Cabernet Sauvignon-based Medocs, Lafleur's 1986 is a structured, tannic, backward wine that needs another 5-8 years of cellaring. It possesses a jammy black cherry, herb, mineral, and earthy-scented nose, and dense, rustic levels of tannin in its full-bodied power, and richness. While it is not fun to drink, it sure is impressive. Will I always admire rather than enjoy this wine?