Chablis Montée de Tonnerre, Domaine François Raveneau 2007

Toasted nuts and lemon oil in the nose of the Raveneau 2007 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre (whose quantities were drastically reduced by hail) put one in mind of the Cote d'Or. But from that point on, it turns in a direction not possible anywhere other than Chablis. Honey, citrus oil, and fresh ginger reinforce an impression of bitter-sweetness on the palate, along with suggestions of musk, crustacean reduction, and brine. This finishes with electric vivacity and implacable grip, the sharp concentration of ginger, iodine, lemon zest, and white pepper creating a memorable sense of vibrancy. One should be able to marvel at this for 10-12 years.