This mythical wine still had about 10% of the malolactic fermentation to be completed. It was notably deeper than the Échezeaux with a lovely silky texture. Obviously great class of fruit – real density yet a certain irresistible flirtatiousness. Bitter cherry flavours that tightened on the finish. There are tannins here but acidity is the dominant feature and Rouget expects this vintage to mature relatively early. Madame Rouget, who stood in as host while her husband took a telephone call, told me that Henry Jayer deliberately did not seek Grand Cru status for this vineyard, however warranted it might be, to save his nephew Emmanuel and family death duties. Drink between 2013-2025
"The 2008 Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux," reports Rouget, "finished its malo at the beginning of February, the same time as the 2009!" For that reason, I tasted it still on its fine lees, having never been racked or sulfured. ("Not that I'm one of these 'bio-' low-sulfur people," he hastened to add.) Lily-like, decadent floral perfume, cassis, framboise, holly berry, and mint hover spirituously over the glass. Vanilla and resin hints for the (100%) new wood mingle with liqueur-like black fruits as well as pungently invigorating red currant and dried cranberry. Here is the vibratory, interactive intensity and complexity one derives from the best young wines of its vintage, with chalk, stone, salt, and iodine all serving to set-off the wine's candied yet acidulated fruit character. This should intrigue and delight for a dozen or more years.